Waste Framework Directive — Textile EPR
Mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility for textiles across all EU member states by April 2028. Eco-modulated fees linked to ESPR sustainability criteria.
Overview
The revised Waste Framework Directive (amendment to Directive 2008/98/EC) establishes mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles across all EU member states. Producers must finance collection, sorting, reuse, and recycling of textile products.
Legal basis
- Original directive: 2008/98/EC (Waste Framework Directive)
- Amendment published: 26 September 2025
- Entered into force: 16 October 2025
- Member state transposition: June 2027
- EPR schemes operational: April 2028
What it covers
- Clothing
- Accessories and hats
- Footwear
- Blankets
- Bed linen, kitchen linen
- Curtains
Producer obligations
- Register with national EPR scheme
- Pay EPR fee per product placed on market
- Fee finances collection infrastructure, sorting, reuse, recycling, disposal
- Applies to all producers including e-commerce and non-EU producers selling into EU
Eco-modulation
EPR fees are adjusted based on sustainability criteria from ESPR:
- More durable products pay lower fees
- More recyclable products pay lower fees
- Ultra-fast fashion and fast fashion penalised in fee structure
- DPP data (durability, recyclability scores) will likely feed eco-modulation calculations
Connection to ESPR and DPP
The textile EPR and ESPR textiles delegated act are designed to work together:
- ESPR sets the sustainability criteria (durability, recyclability, recycled content)
- WFD uses those criteria to eco-modulate EPR fees
- DPP data provides the evidence base for fee calculation
Who is affected
- Textile and clothing producers placing garments, accessories, hats, and clothing on EU national markets
- Footwear producers placing footwear on EU national markets
- Home textile producers (blankets, bed linen, kitchen linen, curtains)
- Importers of covered textile and footwear products
- E-commerce platforms and online marketplaces selling covered products to EU consumers — whether the seller is based in the EU or outside it
- Micro-enterprises (fewer than 10 employees and less than €2 million turnover) receive an additional one-year grace period to comply after April 2028
Penalties and enforcement
Penalties are set by Member States within national transposition legislation. Non-payment of EPR fees or failure to register with a national EPR scheme constitutes a reportable violation. Consequences include:
- Market access denial for non-registered producers
- Administrative fines (amounts set nationally)
- Retrospective fee recovery with interest
France as EPR pioneer: France's textile EPR scheme (TLC scheme, operated by Refashion) has been operational since 2007 — the first in Europe. France's experience in eco-modulation of EPR fees is directly informing the EU-wide framework design, including the link between product sustainability criteria (ESPR) and fee levels.
Key dates
| Date | Milestone | |------|-----------| | 16 October 2025 | Amendment enters into force | | 17 June 2027 | Member states must transpose into national law | | 17 April 2028 | All member states must have operational textile EPR schemes | | 17 April 2029 | Micro-enterprises enter EPR scope (1-year grace period ends) |